We are on Santa Cruz island, in the heart of the balmy Galápagos Islands, climbing up the long straight road from the coast toward the volcanic peak that disappears into a cluster of fluffy cumulus clouds. The environment changes continuously as we climb, suddenly and unreasonably reaching a damper, cooler belt of tropical forest, and surprisingly we come across eight African style safari tents backed by a beautiful Oriental lounge and restaurant.

In a world not much changed since Darwin was here one hundred and fifty years ago finding his inspiration for his theory of Evolution, an enterprising English couple have set up this tremendous option for exploring the islands as an alternative to being on a boat – the Galapagos Safari Camp. With enough smaller islands within easy boating distance, and the giant tortoises and coffee plantations nearby, staggering views from the camp, and superb hospitality and cuisine, I know I have found another great way to visit these islands.

Back in time … To the Amazon rain forest.

A short 20 minute flight from bustling modern Quito brought us down 7,500 feet to the sleepy town of Coca, nestled along the banks of the Amazon’s biggest tributary, the Napo.

A tranquil two hour journey downriver in a longboat shared by a few guests, local villagers and supplies brought us to a jetty jutting unexpectedly out from the forest into the river.

Everybody out .. The villagers disperse to their hidden worlds, we few guests set out for a 20 minute walk along a boardwalk leading back in time to the heart of the rain forest. Monkeys scamper and chatter through the canopy, a lizard scurries under the boardwalk, and tropical flowers explode out of the damp green undergrowth.

The feeling is primeval as we reach a lagoon, squeeze into a canoe and take a 15 minute paddle across to the 18 room Sacha lodge.

A welcome and superb lunch preceded our paddling back through small openings in the undergrowth in a small canoe with our guide. The sounds of the forest enveloped us , and wildlife abounded as it has done for thousands of years … It is perfection …